Rain, ribs and Republicans: two weeks at the World Championships in the USA
Lawrence Ostler shares his experiences during the World Cup in the United States, highlighting the unique interactions and cultural exchanges between fans from different countries.
Rain, ribs and Republicans: two weeks at the World Championships in the USA
According to Sports.
Context
France international Ousmane Dembele has emerged as a key player at the World Cup, with his interactions with other stars such as Kylian Mbappe attracting attention both on and off the pitch. His playing style and technique can be decisive factors in the team's success in the tournament.
Why is this important
The World Cup in the USA has become not only a sporting event, but also a platform for cultural exchange between fans from different countries. Unique interactions such as the meeting between England and Croatia fans highlight how football brings people together despite their differences. Ousmane Dembele, who plays an important role in the French team, also became a symbol of this exchange, bringing his own personality to the atmosphere of the tournament.
Key takeaways
- Rain, ribs and Republicans: two weeks at the World Championships in the USA.
- Lawrence Ostler shares his experiences during the World Cup in the United States, highlighting the unique interactions and cultural exchanges between fans from different countries.
- Rainstorms, ribs and Republicans: Two weeks inside America’s supersized World Cup - Yahoo Sports.
On the eve of England's match against Croatia, I visited the JFK Museum in Dallas and, as it turns out, I wasn't the only one. It's located on the sixth floor of the old Texas School Book Depository building, and if you haven't been there yet, I recommend it - it's a great location that is cleverly staged so that the story gradually builds to the fatal shots, and you suddenly realize that you are just a few feet from where the CIA says Lee Harvey Oswald pulled the trigger. But I was reading about JFK's controversial policies when, out of the corner of my eye, I spotted a Queens Park Rangers T-shirt. I was looking at poignant photographs of Jacqueline Kennedy after her husband's assassination and noticed an England jersey from the early 2000s with the name "Heskey" on the back. A man walked past wrapped in a St. George's flag with the Luton Town coat of arms, distracting me from immersing myself in one of the most significant chapters of American history.
This is, of course, one of the unique joys of the World Cup, when football fans from all over the world mingle in public places, crossing paths on their way to the city. FIFA's insane ticket prices didn't kill the atmosphere. Croatia fans sang in line at the museum, Germans got drunk in Toronto, and Argentines partied in Kansas City. My journey began in Los Angeles, where I discovered a completely different side of this World Cup.Aside from the surprisingly friendly border guard at LAX who explained why Ousmane Dembele complements Kylian Mbappe's movement, I mainly met two types of people: those who knew next to nothing about the tournament, and those who knew even less. The World Cup can come crashing into town and make a splash, but in a big city like Los Angeles it feels more like a breeze against a skyscraper.
I visited the smart suburb of Culver City and found a satisfying breakfast burrito at a cafe called Culver & Main. The manager, a handsome man with luscious hair, asked quick questions and said he was excited about the World Cup, although it later emerged that he was unaware that Team USA would play its first match 10 minutes away the next evening. The taxi driver, wearing a Mexican T-shirt, seemed safe to talk about football with, but spoke no English and was perplexed to learn that Spanish was not spoken in London. One waiter did not even know about the existence of the tournament. Even the stadium security guard I spoke to wasn't entirely sure what event he was guarding.
Some places are better suited than others for this international meeting. Boston's compact size and pedestrian-friendly downtown make it an ideal city to host the championship, and Scotland fans played bagpipes in the streets and sang "Bonnie Banks o' Loch Lomond" and "Yes Sir, I Can Boogie" outside Fenway Park.My second stop was Houston, Texas, and it was completely different - a city torn apart by huge highways, parking lots, and flat architecture. The city seems designed for cars the size of houses, and people live here as if in them. Without a car, you meet all sorts of part-time taxi drivers. For example, a 6-foot-7 basketball coach whose day job was teaching pre-1800 history at a school in Boston. I tried to carry on the conversation in the style of "Rest-Is-History", but quickly realized that I was going too far. Or the staunch Republican who picked me up from the Houston airport. He was a pastor's son, loved Donald Trump, had a unique perspective on slavery, and uttered the immortal words "I'm not biased, but...". I nodded at some things I didn't agree with, just to keep him from suspecting me of doing anything wrong, and the trip ended with him recommending three hot cryptocurrencies for 2027.
Texans are incredibly friendly. The presence of a British accent sets you up for a 15-minute conversation with a smiling woman who shares the most unusual details of her life, such as how her husband's law firm covered the rent of their Kensington apartment 20 years ago. What was I even asking?Just like in France, where there are both informal and formal forms of address, in Texas you are either called "sir" or "babe", depending on the waiter.
The games themselves have become dizzying spectacles in huge spaceships that make most British stadiums seem small and old. Team USA's opener against Paraguay took place at SoFi Stadium, which is so close to LAX that it had to be dug into the ground rather than built in the sky. The result is a strange feeling that the field is unfolding deep below you, like some lost city. Germany's victory over Curacao took place at NRG Stadium, uglier but no less impressive. It's very typical of Houston, a city that doesn't pay attention to aesthetics or pretension. Big is good. Metal is strong. Inside are photographs commemorating rare NFL victories for the Houston Texans, interspersed with images of other stars who have ever visited the place: mostly country musicians, monster trucks and livestock.
I saw England beat Croatia at Dallas Cowboys Stadium. This place can be seen from afar, and it looks a bit like an American football resting on the river bank. The steep stands provided another impressive view and a dose of vertigo. There are times on these trips when you begin to question your life choices.In Dallas, one of the stewards sent me on a 20-minute march around the stadium perimeter in unbearable heat, my skin frying like bacon on the grill, sweat oozing from pores I didn't even know I had, only to be sent back to the press entrance, which was actually where I came from. Or the time I left my Airbnb in Houston in the bright sun, only to watch out the taxi window as biblical rain fell from newly formed mega-clouds, each drop like an Evian bottle slapping the roof. Only a fool would not check the forecast. I ran to the outer perimeter of the stadium, now half wet and still a long way from where the security guard had shoved the package into my hands as if it were contraband. It was a poncho and I almost hugged it.
Security here is perceived as a military operation. One very serious person told me that I could not enter the stadium because my bag was not transparent. I explained that I was in the media, and he took it to a new level of seriousness by tapping his headset and shouting, "We'll work this out, sir. I have a direct line to command." But of course, this is the greatest sporting event in the world in an endlessly fascinating country, and it's a huge privilege to be here, especially considering the ticket prices. There was a lot of fun in downtown Dallas, where Senegalese and French fans watched their teams on a huge screen while many other nationalities moved through the food mall.Former England defender Stuart Pearce was among them, trying to eat but being harassed for selfies every minute.
The rare breaks from watching or writing about football provided an opportunity to explore. In Houston, I ate ribs and melt-in-your-mouth brisket at the aptly named Henderson & Kane, played pool with journalists and locals at a diner, and visited the Museum of Fine Arts. It turned out that the city is much more than just a concrete flood. But interest in football seemed to be limited mainly to stadiums and fan festivals. It's a strange combination of America and the World Cup, thriving and entrenched in some parts of the country and barely existing in others. Football is growing in pockets, but remains a peripheral, old-fashioned leisure activity compared to the takeover of the NFL and NBA. In other ways, though, the US may be the perfect host, a country full of cultural intrigue that was conspicuously absent from Qatar. No other country on earth has such a wide collection of immigrants and descendants of immigrants, so that each city becomes a small global community in which its team is already waiting. The Dutch-Americans painted the stadium in Houston orange this weekend. The World Cup is an international festival of sport, hope, pain, summer escape, and it reaches people in a unique way. I met the most enthusiastic taxi driver in downtown Dallas who didn't know much about football.But she enjoyed the different groups of people she drove around that day and was thrilled at the idea of seeing drunken England fans vandalizing the bars of Dallas later that night. She was talking about flying to Boston to have drinks with the Scots, and I think she was only half serious. “I swear,” she laughed, “if anything can lead to world peace, it’s the World Cup.”
What happens next
As matches approach, such as England's meeting with Croatia, fans' expectations will rise. Fans from different countries will continue to gather in public places, creating unforgettable moments and strengthening bonds. The performances of players such as Ousmane Dembele and Kylian Mbappe are expected to attract attention and increase interest in the tournament.
Frequently Asked Questions
What happened at the World Championships in the USA?
At the World Cup in the USA, soccer fans from all over the world mingle in public spaces, creating a unique atmosphere.
Who confirmed that Ousmane Dembele complements Kylian Mbappe's movement?
A friendly border guard at LAX explained why Ousmane Dembele complements Kylian Mbappe's movement.
Why is the World Cup causing such interest in the USA?
The World Cup attracts interest by mixing football fans from all over the world and creating a unique atmosphere, despite high ticket prices.
What changes have occurred in the perception of the football tournament in Los Angeles?
In Los Angeles, the World Cup feels more like a breeze against a skyscraper, with varying levels of tournament awareness among locals.
What is the role of the John F. Kennedy Museum in the context of the World Cup?
Visiting the JFK Museum has become part of a cultural exchange where football fans intersect with historical sites.
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